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Kad počne ljeto toliko se toga počne dešavati da jednostavno nema vremena za pisanje. Treninzi , odlasci u prirodu i natjecanja izmjenjuju se pravilnim ritmom.
Ono što se mora odraditi su natjecanja jer za njih se sprema cijelu zimsku sezonu. Nakon PH prvo na redu je biolo natjecanje u Imstu a zatim i Evropsko prvenstvo u Edinburghu. Rezultatski gledano : sredina poretka. Može i bolje !
Što se tiče penjanja u prirodi ove godine nekako je bio u modi Kotečnik gdje je Borna popeo nekoliko kvalitetnih smjerova do ocjene 8b. Bilo je tu i standardnog obilaženja Mišje peči gdje je Borna na pogled popeo 30m dugu Uživanciju 8a tip smjera kakav mu inače ne odgovara. Ipak sva je pažnja usmjerena na dva projekta koja nemaju tako upečatljive ocjene kako svoju povijest: Jedan je Maratoneta u Paklenici 8b+ ( samo 4 ponavljanja ) a drugi je Kill Bill 8b na Pokojcu ( samo dva ponavljanja ) koji je nakon odloma grifa postao teži i kao takvog niko ga nije ponovio. Oba smjera spadaju u kategoriju hard za ocjenu i iziskuju povoljne uvjete ui trenutak. U oba smjera Borna je uradio sve gibove, povezao veliki dio, imao odlične pokušaje no treba sačekati hladnije vrijeme za ev. uspon.
U pauzi obilazaka Kotečnika, Pokojca i Paklenice uputili smo se i na odlično bolder natjecanje u Kobaridu kojeg finale promatra i preko tisuću posjetilaca a skupe se odlični penjači poput sloveske braće Jureta i Klemena Bečana. Neočekivano Borna zauzima peto mjesto što je odlično za takvu konkurenciju.
Kraj srpnja bio je predviđen za nastup na Evropskom bolder kupu u Argentierreu u Francuskoj. Ni tu nije išlo po planu : 30. mjesto. Jednostavno ove godine na Evropskim natjecanjima nikako da krene. A znamo da se može puno više. Čekamo i dalje na eksploziju.
Nakon tekme Borna je penjao na penjalištu Rue des masques gdje je popeo dva dobra smjera Racing in the street 8b sec. go, te jedan 7c+ na pogled. Zadnji dan puta penjao je boldere na bolder spotu Ailefroide. Jednom od ljepših bolder penjališta koje je posjetio. Dobar uvod u skori obilazak Magic wooda.
EN
When the summer is starting so much is to do that simply there is no time for writing. Trainings, climbing outside, competitions....
Borna was participating on European competitions : Euro cup at Imst and Europeean championship at Edinburgh. Results was not as we have planned . He can do much better.
After these comps we have climbed outside much as we can. In Kotečnik Borna climbed some good routes up to grade 8b, and in Mišja peč within others 30m long Uživancija 8a. This one on sight. Intresting - this route is not his prefered style. But main projects are two routes with not so high grade , but with intresting history. One is legendary Maratoneta 8b+ in Paklenica. This one have only 4 repetitions and is hard for the grade. Another one is Kill Bill 8b at Pokojec. This one is repeated only twice and after some climbers tryed a hold is broken. Nobody repeated route after this so perhaps route is harder now. Borna have good progress in both routes and almost climbed both , but due small holds he decided to wait until colder period after summer.
In period between Paklenica and Pokojec he visited a very nice competition in Kobarid where finals was watched by more than 1500 spectators. Fantastic ambient and great spectacle. Very good and strong competitors was participating. Unexpected Borna was fifth !
Later we wisited France where Borna was compeeting at Euro boulder cup in Argentierre La Besse.
He took 30. place. Again not as we have expected. Still waiting for explosion !
After competition Borna was visited a nice climbing spot Rue des masques with conglomerate rock and nice routes. He climbed some good routes as Racing in the street 8b sec go and some 7c+ on sight. Last day of the trip he was visited fantastic bouldering spot Ailefroide. Nice intro to trip in Magic wood at the beginning of august.
Kad počne ljeto toliko se toga počne dešavati da jednostavno nema vremena za pisanje. Treninzi , odlasci u prirodu i natjecanja izmjenjuju se pravilnim ritmom.
Ono što se mora odraditi su natjecanja jer za njih se sprema cijelu zimsku sezonu. Nakon PH prvo na redu je biolo natjecanje u Imstu a zatim i Evropsko prvenstvo u Edinburghu. Rezultatski gledano : sredina poretka. Može i bolje !
Što se tiče penjanja u prirodi ove godine nekako je bio u modi Kotečnik gdje je Borna popeo nekoliko kvalitetnih smjerova do ocjene 8b. Bilo je tu i standardnog obilaženja Mišje peči gdje je Borna na pogled popeo 30m dugu Uživanciju 8a tip smjera kakav mu inače ne odgovara. Ipak sva je pažnja usmjerena na dva projekta koja nemaju tako upečatljive ocjene kako svoju povijest: Jedan je Maratoneta u Paklenici 8b+ ( samo 4 ponavljanja ) a drugi je Kill Bill 8b na Pokojcu ( samo dva ponavljanja ) koji je nakon odloma grifa postao teži i kao takvog niko ga nije ponovio. Oba smjera spadaju u kategoriju hard za ocjenu i iziskuju povoljne uvjete ui trenutak. U oba smjera Borna je uradio sve gibove, povezao veliki dio, imao odlične pokušaje no treba sačekati hladnije vrijeme za ev. uspon.Kraj srpnja bio je predviđen za nastup na Evropskom bolder kupu u Argentierreu u Francuskoj. Ni tu nije išlo po planu : 30. mjesto. Jednostavno ove godine na Evropskim natjecanjima nikako da krene. A znamo da se može puno više. Čekamo i dalje na eksploziju.
Nakon tekme Borna je penjao na penjalištu Rue des masques gdje je popeo dva dobra smjera Racing in the street 8b sec. go, te jedan 7c+ na pogled. Zadnji dan puta penjao je boldere na bolder spotu Ailefroide. Jednom od ljepših bolder penjališta koje je posjetio. Dobar uvod u skori obilazak Magic wooda.
When the summer is starting so much is to do that simply there is no time for writing. Trainings, climbing outside, competitions....
Borna was participating on European competitions : Euro cup at Imst and Europeean championship at Edinburgh. Results was not as we have planned . He can do much better.
After these comps we have climbed outside much as we can. In Kotečnik Borna climbed some good routes up to grade 8b, and in Mišja peč within others 30m long Uživancija 8a. This one on sight. Intresting - this route is not his prefered style. But main projects are two routes with not so high grade , but with intresting history. One is legendary Maratoneta 8b+ in Paklenica. This one have only 4 repetitions and is hard for the grade. Another one is Kill Bill 8b at Pokojec. This one is repeated only twice and after some climbers tryed a hold is broken. Nobody repeated route after this so perhaps route is harder now. Borna have good progress in both routes and almost climbed both , but due small holds he decided to wait until colder period after summer.In period between Paklenica and Pokojec he visited a very nice competition in Kobarid where finals was watched by more than 1500 spectators. Fantastic ambient and great spectacle. Very good and strong competitors was participating. Unexpected Borna was fifth !Later we wisited France where Borna was compeeting at Euro boulder cup in Argentierre La Besse.
He took 30. place. Again not as we have expected. Still waiting for explosion !
After competition Borna was visited a nice climbing spot Rue des masques with conglomerate rock and nice routes. He climbed some good routes as Racing in the street 8b sec go and some 7c+ on sight. Last day of the trip he was visited fantastic bouldering spot Ailefroide. Nice intro to trip in Magic wood at the beginning of august.
