07. 04. 2014.

Strelovod 8c

HR
U četvrtak 03. travnja Borna je u slovenskoj Mišjoj peči popeo svoj prvi smjer ocjene 8c. Radi se o smjeruu strelovod kojeg je prvi put probao prošlo ljeto. Već u prvom ozbiljnom pokušaju na jesen pao je na samo gib od kraja smjera, no zatim je uslijedila klasična mentalna barijera. Svaki sljedeći pokušaj padao bi na istom mjestu ali niže. Nikako da prođe iako se vidilo da snage ima. Zbog toga je uzeo pauzu od penjanja tog smjeras i posvetio se rigoroznom treningu te lakšim smjerovima. U međuvremenu je znatno ojačao a bio je i psihički odmoren.
Tog dana nakon dva laganija smjera za zagrijavanje Strelovod je pao u prvom pokušaju. Ono što je interesantno jest činjenica da Borna zapravo nevoli takve smjeove. Za njegov ukus to su predugi smjerovi sa previše gibova ( Strelovod ih ima oko 80). Ipak uspio je. Sada se može posvetiti drugim projektima, no pitanje je koliko će biti vremena jer počinje natjecateljska sezona.




Već tri dana nakon strelovoda u Zagrebu je bilo prvo ovosezonsko natjecanje koje je poslužilo kao odličan test. Radilo se o tekmi Regionalnog kupa. Iako mu je bila prva tekma sezone,
Borna je pobijedio. Odličan uvod u nastavak sezone gdje ga čekaju mnogo ozbiljnija natjecanja.


EN
Last week was specialy happy in our family. Borna did his first 8c, Strelovod at Mišja peč! Finaly ! He was try for the first time this route last year in august. In october during first serious attempt he was felt only one move before final jug. But after, in next trys he was felt always a bit lower, and he get classical mental barrier always falling on the same place. During the winter he was train harder than ever both strenght and endurance as preparation for the new competition season. He was taken a couple of months off from Strelovod and when he was returning back it was simple. After two 7a routes for warming up he did the route in first go that day ! Amazing and more intresting : that kind of route is not what he like. To much moves ( between 70-80) , he likes shorter routes.
Now we finaly can climb more relaxed searching for new challenges but , now new competition season was started so will be less time for climbing outside.
Already on Sunday just three days after Strelovod Borna was compeeting on the first test competition this season. It was regional climbing cup in Zagreb and Borna was won this comp, so this is good introduction to the more serious competition following later in the season.

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